First Month in Prishtina!

Makiato, the symbol of my fieldwork.

I find it hard to believe that it's been almost a month since I've arrived here. I admit, it started off with a bang, including encounters with local bureaucracies and a still-contested election. Indeed, you may have noticed a serious gap in my posts through the middle of June. In the midst of getting used to a new culture, learning a language, and meeting new people, I got a bit overwhelmed here for a while. However, most things have settled down by this point (except for the election, of course), and I'm getting into the swing of that thing we anthropologists love to talk about: fieldwork.


Fieldwork is, of course, different for everybody. When you read ethnographies, some authors seem to take what they've done and give it an abstract, mystical quality, while others turn it into a bit of a romance, complete with narratives and story-lines. I'm not sure which is a better approach, really. Perhaps an abstract romance?

So far, I've been spending a lot of time in cafes, since my research involves watching how people use public spaces. Indeed, if a waiter refers to "Amerikan" in some places, they're possibly referring to me. If you're around in Prishtina, and have some extra time, I can probably give you some suggestions on good places to go at this point. Rest assured, the local favourite coffee, makiato (a heavenly concoction of milk and espresso in a shot) is addictive. Indeed, I've had about 3 today and have to consciously cut myself off. Drinking makiato here is how you kill time, do business, and meet people, so it's a habit you pick up pretty quickly. Thing is, if you've known me for a while, it probably doesn't surprise you that drinking coffee has become my "job."

For a break, I'm making plans to visit Albania later this month or early next. Ideally the beach! Wherever I go, I will happily be taking pictures and posting them up here. Same with any trips to the mountains, with a first happening this weekend with a hiking group.

On a more personal note, to those of you in the US, UK and elsewhere, it is safe to say that I miss you guys. However, I hope you enjoy these posts up here and that they give you happiness (or bemusement, either's fine).

At the moment, I'm chasing up some leads and soon I should have some more things to post soon, including of food (here's to you, anonymous Durhamite who requested a food post) and public space. Will post again soon!

Best,
Chris